Burgundy 超級明星 – Henri Boillot — 這是一個布根地愛好者一定要記得的名字 (Volnay & Bourgogne & Puligny-Montrachet & Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru)
在布根地能同時釀造出優質紅酒和白酒的生產商實在不多,Henri Boillot 是其中的一家。Henri Boillot 的名字,在 2005 年前,只有 Maison Henri Boillot,Henri Boillot 則同時幫助他父親打理著另一家 Domaine Jean Boillot 自有酒莊。但在 2005 年,Domaine Jean Boillot 正式改名為 Domaine Henri Boillot。
Henri Boillot 非常重視葡萄的種植和挑選。每年冬天,Henri Boillot 會進行大量的剪技,令葡萄產量減少,增加品質。也是由於這個原因,Henri Boillot 不須要在夏天進行green harvesting,剪去品質較差的葡萄。雖然如此,在收成前兩星期,Henri Boillot 仍會除去未能完全成熟的葡萄。最後,Henri Boillot 便會使用 sorting table 把受霉菌影響的葡萄除去。
Henri Boillot 紅酒的風格為葡萄果味非常成熟和豐富,口感非常柔順,顔色很深,風格偏向現代化。這樣的風格,除了 Henri Boillot 只使用成熟的葡萄以外,和他的釀造方法,有很大的關係。Henri Boillot 的紅酒在發酵前,會經過長達兩星期的冷浸泡,以增加抽取顏色和果味,此外,橡木桶的使用不會過重,Volnay 的 Premier Cru,一般會使用 40% 的新橡木桶,讓酒可以忠實完美地呈現土壤表達方式!
另外Jean-Marc Boillot則是他的兄弟,Jean-Marc在Pommard有他自己的莊園。Domaine Jean Boillot有數款Volnay紅酒與Puligny白酒,評價也都十分不錯。但是從1999年起才開始生產白酒,他購買葡萄的眼光之準,與釀造的技術之精,讓人瞠目結舌,1999年以後以自己名字裝瓶,才三年後,2002的IWC(International Wine Cellar) 布根地白酒評鑑中,全布根地最高分的白酒有六款(95分以上),Henri Boillot 一家酒廠就獨佔三款,另外三款分別為Lafon 的Montrachet、Dauissat-Camus 的Chablis Les Clos、和Bouchard 的 Chevalier Montrachet。能與超級名牌的超級名園同級,顯露了Henri Boillot的功力之高! 他的頂級和一級白酒一定從單一葡萄園與農家而來,如此才能確保酒品質的一致性。最後,當然所有步驟都必須鉅細靡遺的照顧與要求,才可能做出頂尖的白酒!
The Domaine Henri Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets 2007 (紅酒) Offer: Burghound :92分 & Stephen Tanzer (T.Z):92-95分
1Tasting Notes: Lemon zest, peat, cherry pits, salt spray, and chalk dust on the nose and palate of Boillot’s 2008 Volnay Les Caillerets compound a sense of pungency conveyed by its bright red berry fruit. A dynamic exchange of fruit and mineral renders this tongue-tingling, invigorating, and alluring, leaving you licking your lips and salivating uncontrollably. This should grow up to become a profound exemplar of its site, especially if it gains some richness and bass line. I would expect it to be capable of 12-15 years aging. 年產量:3675瓶
在西元2005的時候,他的父親當時年事已高,已經無法在處理任何酒莊農耕事務,決定由 Henri Boillot 來繼承,從此除了Henri Boillot的超級白酒外,堪稱布根地經典的Volnay 紅酒就此誕生!
Henri Boillot Volnay 在每年冬天時,會大量剪枝,徹底降低產量,拉升品質,採收前兩周,甚至他還會把認為不成熟的葡萄去除,只使用最成熟的果實,造就了Henri Boillot 最經典的風格–內外兼修,「果香成熟與豐富但口感柔順」,喜愛他酒款的酒友都說「層次豐富、單寧卻柔美、豐富的果香更是舒服!」
一開瓶立即散發出非常強烈的黑果味道,不用搖杯,已經能感受到它的強烈味道。黑果、帶酸的黑車厘子、香料、胡椒、乾香草等的味道,香味非常複雜。入口後,味道很香甜。單寧雖然很多,但很幼細,因此口感非常豐富和柔順。
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The Domaine Henri Boillot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2012 Offer:
Tasting Notes: The 2012 Bourgogne Blanc, which comes from several appellations, has a simple waxy bouquet. The palate is light and crisp, but is missing a little substance on the finish. Hopefully, it will gain more character with continued bottle age.
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The Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de La Mouchere 2013 Offer:
Tasting Notes: The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru la Mouchere has a pretty, limestone-driven bouquet that opens in the glass, showing a little more nuance than the other 2013 premier cru Pulignys at this moment. The palate is very well balanced with finely tuned acidity. Henri Boillot compared it to a Chevalier-Montrachet on the finish, and I can see where he is coming from. Superb.
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The Domaine Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne 2011 Offer:
Tasting Notes: This flight of 2011s comes to a close with the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne, a cool, introspective and powerful wine. Layers of bright citrus, mint and crushed rocks fill out the wine’s big, broad-shouldered frame nicely. The intense, tight finish suggests the Corton-Charlemagne is going to require a measure of patience. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.
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The Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières 2013 Offer:
Tasting Notes: The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Pucelles has the most expressive bouquet with bruised apple, Conference pear and limestone scents soaring from the glass. The palate is clean and crisp with almost piercing citric acidity, superb tension and a clean and precise finish, not unlike the Pucelles that I had just tasted chez Anne-Claude Leflaive. This has a long tail on the finish – excellent.
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regards,
玖德貿易有限公司 Wine Vertu .Co.,Ltd
吳嘉興 Vincent Wu
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