The Wines of Dominique Laurent 布根地紅酒最重要的精華地塊,夜丘區(Cote de Nuits – Vieilles Vignes 老藤) Offer – (精彩限量 2009 – 布根地五星級酒莊)

Dominique Laurent 最重要的關鍵在於”老”–“優質的老藤與極低的產量”,聽起簡單的道理,但在現實的環境中卻是一件困難的工作,他花相當多的時間去研究每一塊葡萄園,與果農和酒莊建立交情,親自參與許多葡萄田的工作,讓他能購買到它心目理想標準的葡萄!

當酒進行完發酵的第一時間,便迅速裝運到他的酒窖進行後續的培醞工作。在 酒窖中,除了巧妙的運用木桶之外,他堅持以最少的人為涉入來進行培醞,當酒完成後也是不加入二氧化硫、不經澄清與過濾、採用手工裝瓶。他認為培醞只是一個 必要的過程,目的用來幫助葡萄酒發展更多層次與複雜,但同時又忠實的呈現terroir的迷人特色,這就是他奉為圭皋的釀酒哲理。或許由於 本身的天份、或許由於積極認真的工作,Dominique Laurent 釀造許多一流的超優質酒款,因此在當時傳統保守的布根地果農酒莊圈中,許多的質疑者,現在都非常榮幸能與Dominique Laurent合作,雖然這些酒莊的名字不會出現在Dominique Laurent的酒標上。

為了擁有最佳品質的木桶,Dominique Laurent 直接創建自己的製桶廠,被公認為世界最佳的製桶廠之一,這些就是為是人所津津樂道、被法國品酒大師Michel Bettane先生稱之為”神奇木桶magic casks”。 Dominique Laurent親自深入Tronçais森林挑選平均樹齡300年的橡木,砍伐後運回他的製桶廠,他只挑選最佳的樹幹進行人工劈裂成木片,由於採用人工劈 裂,所以平均的木片厚度約為4~4.5公分,比一般等級的2.5~3公分厚的許多,所以也需要比平常來的長的52個月的風乾,之後才能合乎他要求製桶材的 品質要求。這些木桶除了他自用與提供他先前投資創立隆河的Tardieu Laurent頂級酒款使用外,也少數賣給慕名而來的頂級酒莊,諸如 DRC, Zind Humbrect, Clos Mogador, Pingus和Robert Parker 先生投資的 Beau Freres (Oregon) 等等。

經過20幾年的精益求精,Dominique Laurent是少數被Robert Parker評為最高等級”Outstanding”的五星級酒莊,與DRC, Leroy, Dujac, Ponsot等齊名,已儼然以酒商之姿名列布根地頂尖酒莊之林。

The Dominique Laurent Beaune 1er Cru V.V. 2009 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 92分- Only 10 Btls

Tasting Notes: Issuing as usual, from Reversees, Sizies, and Tuvilains – but comprising a mere two barrels – Laurent’s 2009 Beaune 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes displays the brightness of tart-edged fresh fruit and the energy associated with its vintage, on a palate featuring fine-grained, vanishing tannins mingled with marrow-rich veal stock, and strikingly transparent to stony and invigoratingly saline nuances. This should prove delectably versatile over at least the next 6-8 years, and may well acquire additional complexity.

The Dominique Laurent Gevrey Chambertin V.V. 2009 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 91分- Only 8 Btls

Tasting Notes: A combination of blackberry and black cherry fruit and spicy new oak gives this red a modern feel. Not that concentrated, but stylish and balanced. Fine length. Drink now through 2020. 0830 cases made.

The Dominique Laurent Vosne Romanee V. V 2009 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 92分- Only 3 Btls

Tasting Notes: “I’m a partisan of the Vosne Romanee (acreage) of Flagey-Echezeaux,” says Laurent – with a chuckle – by way of explaining the principle sources for his 2008 Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes, “even though they aren’t in Flagey and neither are they in Vosne!” The reference is to the strip of Murailles du Clos, les Violettes, and les Quartiers de Nuits than runs alongside Clos Vougeot from the route nationale up to appellation Echezeaux (Les Treux), and then to the group of sites collectively known as “les Rouges,” due west, and high up at the edge of the Combe d’Orveaux. A bit of Beaux Monts also went into the 15 barrels that constitute this particular cuvee. A decidedly confectionary overlay of vanilla, caramel, and marzipan both on the nose and palate, as is so often the case in Laurent wines of this vintage, manages to integrate itself surprisingly well with fresh dark berry fruit. Polished in texture, this adds depth of meat stock, forest floor, peat, and briny notes that really activate the salivary glands, and all of these features come together for a long, enticing, and fascinating finish.



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