The Wines of Dominique Laurent (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) Offer – (精彩限量 2009 & 2010年 – 布根地五星級酒莊)

Dominique Laurent 最重要的關鍵在於”老”–“優質的老藤與極低的產量”,聽起簡單的道理,但在現實的環境中卻是一件困難的工作,他花相當多的時間去研究每一塊葡萄園,與果農和酒莊建立交情,親自參與許多葡萄田的工作,讓他能購買到它心目理想標準的葡萄!

當酒進行完發酵的第一時間,便迅速裝運到他的酒窖進行後續的培醞工作。在 酒窖中,除了巧妙的運用木桶之外,他堅持以最少的人為涉入來進行培醞,當酒完成後也是不加入二氧化硫、不經澄清與過濾、採用手工裝瓶。他認為培醞只是一個 必要的過程,目的用來幫助葡萄酒發展更多層次與複雜,但同時又忠實的呈現terroir的迷人特色,這就是他奉為圭皋的釀酒哲理。或許由於 本身的天份、或許由於積極認真的工作,Dominique Laurent 釀造許多一流的超優質酒款,因此在當時傳統保守的布根地果農酒莊圈中,許多的質疑者,現在都非常榮幸能與Dominique Laurent合作,雖然這些酒莊的名字不會出現在Dominique Laurent的酒標上。

為了擁有最佳品質的木桶,Dominique Laurent 直接創建自己的製桶廠,被公認為世界最佳的製桶廠之一,這些就是為是人所津津樂道、被法國品酒大師Michel Bettane先生稱之為”神奇木桶magic casks”。 Dominique Laurent親自深入Tronçais森林挑選平均樹齡300年的橡木,砍伐後運回他的製桶廠,他只挑選最佳的樹幹進行人工劈裂成木片,由於採用人工劈 裂,所以平均的木片厚度約為4~4.5公分,比一般等級的2.5~3公分厚的許多,所以也需要比平常來的長的52個月的風乾,之後才能合乎他要求製桶材的 品質要求。這些木桶除了他自用與提供他先前投資創立隆河的Tardieu Laurent頂級酒款使用外,也少數賣給慕名而來的頂級酒莊,諸如 DRC, Zind Humbrect, Clos Mogador, Pingus和Robert Parker 先生投資的 Beau Freres (Oregon) 等等。

經過20幾年的精益求精,Dominique Laurent是少數被Robert Parker評為最高等級”Outstanding”的五星級酒莊,與DRC, Leroy, Dujac, Ponsot等齊名,已儼然以酒商之姿名列布根地頂尖酒莊之林。

The Dominique Laurent Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches 2009 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 93分- Only 9 Btls

Tasting Notes: A 2006 Beaune Clos des Mouches Vieilles Vignes displays aromas of ripe cassis and dark cherry shadowed by their spirituous counterparts. Distilled violet and gentian essences also waft from the glass, along with vanilla and nutmeg from Laurent’s beloved, signature, and indeed generally highly-flattering barrels. (As it happens, Laurent says this wine took especially long to come to amicable terms with its new wood.) Rich fruit floods a tannin-rich yet fine-grained palate of palpably old vines density, all quite transparent to underlying crushed stone, saline savor, peat, and smoked meat, putting one in mind of this cru’s proximity to Pommard. Finishing with enticing succulence and thought-provoking complexity, here is a superb rendition of this well-known site that should be worth following for at least the better part of a decade.

限時優惠促銷 – Special offer: NT$3,190元/瓶 -只有 9瓶– Stephen Tanzer (T.Z):93分
The Dominique Laurent Nuits St-Georges No.1 2009 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 92分- Only 4 Btls

Tasting Notes: Laurent’s 2009 Nuits St.-Georges No. 1 Vieilles Vignes as usual represents a very large cuvee for him, leaning heavily this year on fruit from the Aux St.-Julien. Bright cherry and red currants mingle with red meat juices and invigorating mineral salts on a finely-tannic palate, finishing with a vibrancy, penetration, and saliva-inducement I could have mistaken for that of a 2008. A faint hint of vanilla from barrel offers a complementary accent. This should prove delightful for at least the next half dozen years, even if it doesn’t gain additional complexity. (Given the size of this cuvee, its barrels never reside in the small cellar where I taste with Laurent, and instead of the cask sample of 2008 his chef de cave was supposed to have sent over, I tasted the “2008 Nuits-St.-Georges Tradition” – Laurent’s second label – which, incidentally, I rated 87-88. I could not make time to return for a later sampling of the Vieilles Vignes.)


The Dominique Laurent Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chenes 2010 (Vieilles Vignes 老藤) – Offer: Stephen Tanzer (T.Z): 94分- Only 4 Btls

Tasting Notes: The Laurent 2010 Volnay Clos Des Chenes Vieilles smells delightfully of ripe, dark plum and cherry, gingerbread, vanilla, and herbal concentrates. Richly-fruited and -textured on the palate – with an impression of bitter-sweet dark berry and herbal liqueur – and underlain by a palpable sense of chalky extract, this finishes with sap, grip, and resonant interplay. Look for it to be worth following for at least the better part of a decade. There are only two barrels of it, but then, Laurent adds with a laugh, the grower who supplies him only has three.


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