義大利 Chianti 世界裡,絕對不可不認識 Paolo De Marchi – 他就是 Sangiovese 改革先鋒 – Isole e Olena 酒莊•【Chardonnay • Chianti • Cepparello • Collezione de Marchi • Vin Santo 旗艦酒款】精選系列

中古世紀托斯卡納傳統典型將 Chianti 與 Sangiovese 完美結合,義大利 Chianti 世界裡,您絕對不可不認識 Paolo De Marchi 這個人- 他就是Sangiovese 改革先鋒 – Isole e Olena !

今天要介紹 Olena這塊葡萄園,最早的文獻記載可追溯到西元12世紀。Isole 和 Olena 這二塊葡萄園至今已有數百年的歷史, De Marchi 家族在西元1950年將 Isole和 Olena 這兩塊地買下後,其合併成 Isole e Olena。De Marchi 家族本身就是Piedmont皮蒙釀酒世家,以釀製 Lessona 酒款聞名,生活在如此地環境之下,讓 Paolo De Marchi 在兒童時代就開始學習,從小耳濡目染下充滿著釀酒熱情!

De Marchi家族自1950年開始接手 Isole e Olena酒莊,交由 Paolo De Marchi和家人經營,Paolo De Marchi 接手後大幅改良舊有農耕制度,將葡萄園分割更小塊,更能悉心照料,並且擴充酒窖規模及更新釀酒設備。

Paolo De Marchi 本身為 Isole e Olena莊主和釀酒師,相當熟悉法國和加州葡萄酒產區。他本身1976年畢業於杜林(Turin)的農業大學並取得釀酒學位,當時為了完成學士論文,Paolo特別花了六個月的時間在美國加州研究當地釀酒業。1980年,Paolo受僱進入皮蒙區的”Istituto Sperimentale per L’Enologia”機構工作。直 到今天,Paolo仍與多間大學的釀酒學系保持密切聯繫,持續造訪各國各地葡萄酒產區,除了分享彼此對葡萄酒的熱忱外,進行學術和技術上的交流。 1976年,Paolo接手Isole e Olena酒莊,栽植計畫歷經了大幅度的修正,諸如品種、種植密度(5,000~7,000藤/公頃)、土壤與管理技術等,冀望將自己的釀酒學識轉換為實作經驗,帶領 Isole e Olena酒莊成為 Chianti 產區先驅改革領導者。

Paolo De Marchi 改良經典奇 Chianti Classico酒款傳統,以四種葡萄來混釀的配方,將其中葡萄比例逐步減少至最終完全摒除,這樣大膽的改變不僅讓原來屬年輕、清淡的Chianti酒體變的更厚實,且相當適合陳年久存。Paolo De Marchi以100% Sangioveses釀製,釀出第一個1980年份 Cepparello旗艦酒款,就是Paolo De Marchi獻給世人的一個完美的 Sangiovese 作品!!

採用100% Sangiovese 釀造的 Cepparello旗艦酒款,取名源自Isole e Olena 酒莊後方最高處的一條美麗小溪 Borro Cepparello,Cepparello旗艦酒款採用100% Sangiovese葡萄,100% 人工採收 Cepparello葡萄園位於海拔400公尺丘陵上,面朝西南方,充足良好日照,土壤由石灰岩、黏土及砂岩組成,利於土壤的排水和集水作用。1/3於新法國橡木桶,1/3於1年期橡木桶,1/3於2年期橡木桶中陳放18個月(大多數使用法國橡木桶,約3~5%為美國橡木桶),裝瓶再陳放一年後才上市。

Isole e Olena 酒莊

The Wines of Isole e Olena •【Chardonnay Collezione Privata 2013 】 Offer -【旗艦白酒】-【 Antonio Galloni’s Vinous : 93分】

Tasting Notes: The 2013 Chardonnay Collezione Privata is richly layered and inviting, the wine delivers warm tones of exotic fruit, peach, butter, white almond and fresh baguette. The creamy richness of the finish is delicious and long-lasting.

Dark straw-yellow with green hues. Enticing. Aromas of beautifully balanced apples, toasty-oak (not too much) and honey almonds. Very nice! Palate of toasted almond, honey-cream and pleasing acidity. The finish is fairly long and elegant. Ah, she impresses on first sightMade from five Burgundian clones. Some “experts” say the “finest Chardonnay made outside France”.

100% Chardonnay,前六個月之間會不定期的攪拌酒液,使這款酒如勃根地風格般的紮實和複雜。發酵完成後,酒液與葡萄渣視年份一同放置於新橡木桶(不少於1/3)10~12個月。散發濃烈的香料和奶油香氣。在口感上,成熟、奶油般滑潤的水果味道與來自橡木桶陳年的香氣,非常平衡,餘韻為淡雅的檸檬氣息。

Isole e Olena •【Chardonnay Collezione Privata 2013】-【 Antonio Galloni’s Vinous : 93分】

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The Wines of Isole e Olena •【Chianti Classico 2014 】 Offer -【D.O.C.G.】-【 James Suckling: 91分 & Wine Enthusiast :92分 & Robert Parker: 90分 & Antonio Galloni’s Vinous : 91分】

Tasting Notes: This wine offers excellent value. The 2014 Chianti Classico is 80% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 5% Syrah, aged in small and large oak barrels for one year. It offers beautifully polished and fine aromas of wild berry, toasted almond, grilled herb and blue violet. Compared to its peers from this difficult vintage, this wine offers noticeably more definition and depth.

80% Sangiovese 和 15% Canaiolo 和5% Syrah釀製,發酵完成後會先後在小木桶和400公升橡木桶內培釀熟成一年時間,然後裝瓶後再繼續陳放三 ~ 四個月後才會上市。黑櫻桃與覆盆子與花朵香氣,酒體平衡且鮮明的酸度。

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The Wines of Isole e Olena •【Cepparello 2012】Offer –【Sangiovese 旗艦酒款】-【Antonio Galloni’s Vinous : 97分 & James Suckling: 94分 & Wine Enthusiast :95】

Tasting Notes: This is a landmark wine from Tuscany that continues to offer greatness even in the uneven vintages. The 2012 Cepparello is a gregarious and beautifully intense expression that speaks highly of this beautiful and somewhat isolated corner of the Chianti Classico appellation in Barberino Val d’Elsa. I must underline that this vintage is very different from the plump and extra round 2011 Cepparello that precedes it. In fact, I like the more austere style that is so confidently put on display in 2012. That streamlined power and forthcoming determination is well matched to the natural heft and density of this important Sangiovese-based wine. It shows excellent elegance, good tannin management and a somewhat trimmed down style. There’s no extra fat here and the inner fruit stands tall as a result. The first vintage of Cepparello was made was 1980.

採用100% Sangiovese 釀造的 Cepparello旗艦酒款,取名源自Isole e Olena 酒莊後方最高處的一條美麗小溪 Borro Cepparello,Cepparello旗艦酒款採用100% Sangiovese葡萄,100% 人工採收 Cepparello葡萄園位於海拔400公尺丘陵上,面朝西南方,充足良好日照,土壤由石灰岩、黏土及砂岩組成,利於土壤的排水和集水作用。1/3於新法國橡木桶,1/3於1年期橡木桶,1/3於2年期橡木桶中陳放18個月(大多數使用法國橡木桶,約3~5%為美國橡木桶),裝瓶再陳放一年後才上市。釀出第一個1980年份 Cepparello旗艦酒款,就是Paolo De Marchi獻給世人的一個完美的 Sangiovese 作品!!

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The Wines of Isole e Olena •【Collezione de Marchi 2010】Offer -【Cabernet Sauvignon 旗艦酒款】-【Antonio Galloni’s Vinous : 98分 & James Suckling: 94分】

Tasting Notes: 90% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cabernet Franc. Powerfully expressive with depth and elegance, rivalling classed growth Bordeaux for quality. The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Collezione De Marchi is magnificent. Violets, smoke, plums and cassis jump from the glass in a stunning wine. The 2010 is incredible, it shows shows no hard edges, incredibly expressive aromatics and beautifully delineated fruit. The 2010 is built on exceptional finesse and elegance. 【It is one of the great wines of what has turned out to be a great Tuscan vintage】. Intensely coloured, with a restrained perfume of blackcurrants and a hint of eucalyptus.

90% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cabernet Franc,.100%使用橡木桶陳釀24個月,其中 50%使用新桶(80%法國橡木桶和20%美國橡木桶)。裝瓶再陳放兩年後上市,窖藏潛力達15年以上。充滿莓果和黑醋栗香氣,並逐漸散發黑莓果、香草和礦物氣息。口感芳香,有如絲絨般的結構和柔順單寧,尾韻優雅綿長。

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The Wines of Isole e Olena •【Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2006】Offer –【Vin Santo 旗艦酒款】-【Robert Parker: 96分 & Wine Spectator: 95分】

Tasting Notes: The 2006 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is a divine dessert wine that boasts the best of this labor-intensive winemaking tradition. Vintners who make Vin Santo will always tell you that they do so for passion. The quantities are so small and the commercial margins so thin, pure passion is the only reason someone would embark on this kind of project. Happily for us wine lovers, people like Paolo De Marchi have that passion. His Vin Santo is one of the best available today. The wine is impeccable and beautiful inside and out. Caramel, maple syrup, roasted pine nut and dried apricot emerge from the bouquet. I find this wine to be simply irresistible for those with a sweet tooth and those without.

65% Malvasia 和35% Trebbiano 風乾,直到葡萄的糖度達到35度才能開始榨汁,此時葡萄汁已如蜂蜜般醇厚,加入些許上個年份的Vin Santo葡萄渣以「啟動」發酵,之後再以蠟封桶,進行長達為期六年的發酵。接下來這些酒桶會被存放在閣樓中,因為最靠近屋頂的位置能讓酒桶中的發酵反應隨著四季變化而調節。風味集中、豐富、複雜的堅果香氣,能嘗到水果乾,杏桃乾,及糖漬橘皮的味道,口感極度平衡且持久,是一瓶最難獲得的絕佳Vin Santo作品。

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